Thursday
June 14,
2007 - Day
20 -
Night After
two nights
of camping
and really
pushing the
miles, I am
glad to be
in
Georgetown
and staying
in a motel
where I can
soak my
abused feet
tonight. I
did enjoy
the tent
experience
and
campgrounds
are great
places to
meet
interesting
characters.
On
Tuesday
night I
spent about
an hour
talking with
a geologist
from Alabama
who, after
suffering a
serious
illness,
quit his job
and went to
India to
study Reiki,
a spiritual
healing
technique. He
now lives
the life of
a gypsy,
constantly
on the move
and staying
under the
radar to
avoid people
who he feels
don't want
his type of
healing to
be widely
known. A bit
paranoid
perhaps, but
interesting
none the
less. He did
give me
several web
references
dealing with
some
interesting
theological
questions
that I need
to check
out. Not
your typical
around the
campfire
discussion
at the KOA.
I did
enjoy the
walk through
the Francis
Marion
National
Forest,
particularly
passing and
greeting the
many sweet
grass basket
weavers
working
along side
their stands
all along
the
highway. They
are the
sweetest
people and I
love hearing
the Gullah
dialect -
they
practically
"sing" their
words.
If you
are ever
driving on
Hwy 17 north
of Mt.
Pleasant, I
highly
recommend
visiting
Jack's
Cosmic Dogs
- great
retro feel
and hot dogs
any way you
want 'em. A
great
breakfast
place is the
McClellanville
Diner in
McClellanville,
SC. It is
definitely
where the
locals hang
out, and a
great place
to meet some
friendly
folk. The
only thing
that is hard
for me is
getting used
to
restaurants
that allow
smoking.
Tomorrow
my good
friends Ray
and Hilda
Jones are
driving up
from
Pensacola to
catch up
with me on
Pauley's
Island and
bring me
some
supplies,
including a
fresh pair
of shoes and
my
resurrected
MP3 player
(thanks
John!). It
will be good
to see them
and to get
my hike
soundtrack
back. Now
I'll be able
to resume my
"favorite
tune of the
week"
postings for
you.
Oh well.
Time to soak
the feet one
more time
and call it
a night. So
long until
tomorrow ...
Wednesday
June 13,
2007 - Day
19 -
Late
Afternoon
The
walking
today has
been pretty
easy, so I
made it 21
miles to the
campground I
didn't think
I would get
to until
tomorrow. I
did get
soaked once
when a huge
storm front
blew through
around
noon. It
has cooled
things off
nicely. It
is very
windy, so
pitching the
tent was a
bit
challenging.
I'm in a
national
forest camp
site at a
place called
Buck
Hall. It's a
pretty
primative
site, so
I'll have to
make this
post a short
one to
preserve my
battery. I'm
about 3
miles south
of
McClellanville.
I hope to
make it to
Georgetown
tomorrow
(about 25
miles).
I want to
ask a
favor. In
the column
to the right
of this blog
are the
logos of the
corporate
sponsors of
the hike. If
you are
enjoying
being a part
of this
adventure,
please write
or call them
and tell
them you
appreciate
what they
are doing.
When I get
to
civilization
(and
electricity)
tomorrow,
I'll check
back in...
Tuesday
June 12,
2007 - Day
18 -
Evening A dark
cloud has
been hanging
over me all
day -- and
it's
great! Although
it has
rumbled for
hours and
grown more
ominous, it
has created
a cool
breeze and
kept the
temperature
in the low
80s, perfect
walking
weather.
The
walking
today has
been easy
and
entertaining. As
a result of
the
Charleston
newspaper
story and an
interview on
the CBS-TV
affiliate, I
have become
somewhat of
a low
country
celebrity. Everywhere
I go now
people honk
and wave,
some pull
over and
give me
pieces of
paper with
their names
and numbers
in case I
need
anything,
and when I
go into
restaurants
everybody
knows me. If
I stay in SC
much longer,
I may have
to hire an
agent!
People here
are nice
beyond
belief and
totally
fascinating.
The
threatening
weather held
off long
enough for
me to get to
a KOA and
pitch my
tent. It's
in a
beautiful
spot right
on the
water. About
5 minutes
after I set
up camp the
rain
started, but
after a nice
shower the
sun came out
and it's a
beautiful
afternoon.
After
lugging this
camping gear
around for
17 days, I
am glad that
tonight I
can finally
use
it. Tomorrow
I will be
heading to
Awendaw. Check
in with you
then ...
Monday
June 11,
2007 - Day
17 -
Night
What a
glorious day
walking
through
Charleston! This
is a
beautiful
city filled
with most
gracious
people. This
trip is
teaching me
that we are
surrounded
by angels,
if only we
are open to
them. The
situations I
have found
myself in
have given
me the
opportunity
to
experience
this first
hand.
Today is a
perfect
example. It
began with
the final
leg of my
"second
coming" into
Charleston. I
had decided
to pretty
much bypass
the city,
taking a
more
northerly
inland route
and then
doubling
back to the
coast at the
next major
stop which
is
Georgetown. Why? Because
the stretch
of 17 north
of the city
looked
pretty
desolate on
the map. As
I was about
to make a
crucial
turn, I
received an
e-mail from
Sam Lewis, a
realtor in
Charleston
that I met
on the road
north of
Beaufort.
Actually,
Sam and his
wife Jeannie
had read
about my
journey in
the
Charleston
paper and
pulled off
the road to
give me a
copy of the
article and
wish me
luck. It
turns out
that they
had been
looking for
me since
that first
encounter on
Saturday and
had even
enlisted
their
friends
Dennis and
Jo Bergvall
in the
search. Sam
drove up and
down 17 on
Sunday
looking for
me (about
the time I
was on John
Island). He
just wanted
to invite me
to have
dinner and
stay at
their
house. I
eagerly
accepted his
offer and
changed my
plans
accordingly. Knowing
that I would
be staying
in the city
for the
night, I
decided to
follow 17
through
Charleston
and cross
the
impressive
Ravenel
suspension
bridge from
downtown
over to Mt.
Pleasant.
Crossing the
span was the
highlight of
my walk. Sam
picked me up
in Mt.
Pleasant,
gave me a
tour of
historic
Charleston,
and then
took me to
his house
where I was
treated to a
delicious
dinner with
him,
Jeannie,
Dennis and
Jo. It was a
wonderful
evening with
my new best
friends. They
were
definitely
my angels
today.
But there
was another
angel. When
I was trying
to get
through the
confusing
maze of
ramps onto
the bridge's
pedestrian
walk, I
found myself
suddenly
stuck in the
middle of a
convergence
of on ramps
with about
six lanes on
either side
of me. As I
was
pondering my
fate, a car
pulled over
in front of
me in the
only tiny
little wedge
of road that
was not
occupied by
vehicles
racing by at
60 mph. A
gentleman
hopped out
and said
"get in and
I'll get you
out of
here". I
did, and he
took me all
the way into
Mt.
Pleasant,
turned
around and
brought me
all the way
back into
Charleston
where he
took me to
the entrance
ramp so I
could make
the trek
across. Another
angel.
Add to this
the fact
that had I
not returned
to Beaufort
on Friday, I
would never
met any of
these folks
or had any
of the
incredible
experiences
I have had
the past
four
days. And
thanks to
Sam, I
discovered
that staying
straight on
17 through
the national
forest
yields a KOA
and two
national
park
campsites in
the next 60
miles --
yea! At
last, the
chance for
real
camping. I
am ready to
move on
tomorrow,
but I will
never forget
the amazing
events and
great new
friends I
have made.
Catch you
later ...
Sunday
June 10,
2007 - Day
16 -
Afternoon
Yesterday
was by far
the most
challenging
walk to
date. The
temperature
hit 100
degrees. The
extra water
I packed
came in
handy,
although I
could really
feel the
extra
weight. All
in all,
however, it
ended up
being
another
amazing day.
I started
out around
6AM, hoping
to beat the
heat. It was
already 80
degrees with
a healthy
dose of
humidity,
and the
country road
I took to
get back to
Route 17
must be
where every
mosquito in
South
Carolina
meets for
breakfast --
and I was
the main
course! I
put on my
mosquito net
head cover
which
protected my
face, but
those little
suckers were
biting right
through my
shirt.
After I
sprayed it
with DEET
they became
less
interested,
and by
9:00AM the
heat was too
much for
them I guess
and they
disappeared. Note
to self:
sleep later
-- heat is
more
bearable
than
mosquitoes.
Once back on
17, I came
upon the
most
significant
road kill I
have ever
seen. I was
on a long
open stretch
of road
through
marshy
lowland when
I saw from a
distance
what
appeared to
be a large
log in the
road. As I
got closer I
realized
that it was
a 7 foot
alligator,
apparently
the victim
of a late
night hit
and run. I
can only
imagine what
kind of
alignment
problems
some
motorist
must be
experiencing
today.
Needless to
say, it was
creating a
lot of
problems for
drivers
trying to
get around
it on the
narrow two
lane
highway.
By the time
I got to
Jacksonboro
several
hours later
I was beat.
I did find a
guy who had
a makeshift
campground
(but no
running
water) where
I could
pitch my
tent. I was
about to set
up camp, not
really
thrilled
about the
prospect of
crawling
into my tent
all dirty
and wet and
trying to
get some
rest. Now,
I'm not
trying to
sound like a
whiner. I
just want to
set the
scene for
the amazing
thing that
happened
next.
My cell
phone
rings. On
the line is
my good
friend
Beverly
Patteson
from
Pensacola. She
is en route
to visit her
sister Jan
and is at
that moment
driving on
Route 17,
less than 30
miles
away. "Hey,"
she says, "I
don't know
where you
are today,
but if you
need a place
to stay,
I'll come
get you and
you can stay
with us on
John's
Island.". I
had seen the
island on
the map
earlier and
knew that it
was about 20
miles from
the spot
where I was
standing.
About now I
am thinking
that I am
the luckiest
person in
the
world. Needless
to say, I
spent the
night in a
gorgeous
house on
John's
Island and
enjoyed two
delicious
meals
prepared by
Jan, who is
quite the
gourmet
chef.
In just a
little while
Beverly will
be taking me
back to 17
to pick up
where I left
off
yesterday. I
am once
again well
rested,
rescued when
I needed it
most and
expected it
least.
Once again I
have
experienced
the thrill
of casting
my fate to
the wind,
trusting
that
everything
will work
out for the
best. It's
a great day
as the
adventure
continues.
Pax pedes
(loosely
translated
Latin for
"peaceful
feet")...
Saturday June
9, 2007 -
Day 15
- Afternoon A long,
hot stretch
of open
road. This
has been a
hard
day. I'm
still
thinking
about the
great time I
had with the
Shouse
family in
Seabrook.
They have
definitely
earned a
spot on my
Best of the
South list!
I hope to
make it to
Jacksonboro
tonight
(there is a
campground
there) and
then into
Ravenel
tomorrow and
on to
Charleston. I
may be too
tired to
blog
tonight. Later
...
Friday June
8, 2007 -
Day 14
- Night What an
amazing
day! It
began with
my return to
Beaufort,
where I did
my laundry,
restocked my
pack with
extra food
and water,
and began
the walk to
Charleston
(now dubbed
the "second
coming").
Making
the decision
to back up
and remain
true to
myself and
all of you
who are
supporting
this journey
has really
strengthened
my resolve
and
recharged
me. The walk
today was
extremely
hot but
relatively
easy. The
scenery was
some of the
best I have
encountered. As
I walked
along the
Broad River,
a rather
marshy
looking body
of water
with an
abundance of
tall grass
growing up
throughout
it, I was
amazed to
see a school
of three
dolphins
playing in
the water
right next
to where I
was
walking. They
were
beautiful,
but seemed
out of place
in that
environment.
About 15
miles north
of Beaufort,
I came upon
a produce
market. The
proprietors
were very
nice and
offered to
let me pitch
my tent
beside the
market. It
was still
early and I
wanted to
make it to
Gardens
Corner
before
stopping. They
warned me
not to camp
there, but
gave me
directions
to a large
farm where
they said
the owners
would let me
camp. Their
directions
took me
about six
miles down a
quiet
country lane
and to the
front door
of well
maintained
country
home. I was
welcomed
graciously,
invited in
and offered
some of the
best sweet
tea I have
ever
tasted. After
meeting the
entire
family, I
was given
the
opportunity
to
shower. After
a tour of
their
beautiful
property,
which
adjoins a
nature
preserve
owned by the
Nemoirs
family and
sits across
from land
owned by the
governor, I
accompanied
the family
to dinner in
Beaufort.
My first
thought was
that I was
doomed to
continue to
return to
Beaufort
again and
again. But
not to worry
-- after
dinner we
returned to
the farm and
I was given
a room for
the night. I
have been so
blessed with
the people I
have met on
this journey
-- people
who welcome
a hot and
sweaty
stranger
into their
home and
make me feel
like
family. Life
is indeed
good and
America is
made up of
good decent
people who
open their
hearts
freely. Already
this
adventure
has forever
changed the
way I see
others and
the
opportunities
that we can
so easily
miss if we
don't take
the time to
connect with
people we
encounter
every day.
I spoke
in an
earlier blog
about
nicknames
for AT
hikers. Based
on my
experiences
over the
last 48
hours and
the
reaffirmation
of my moral
compass, I
have chosen
"Cricket"
(as in
Jiminy) as
my
moniker. It
will serve
as a
constant
reminder to
always let
my
conscience
be my
guide. There
is no other
way.
Peace be
with you
this
weekend.
Friday
June 8, 2007
- Day
14 -
Morning I was
already
having
misgivings
about
skipping the
leg from
Beaufort to
Ravenel
yesterday. A
message from
one of my
mentors
confirmed my
own
feelings. I
started this
journey with
one goal: to
walk from
Florida to
Washington. That
means every
mile.
Today I am
returning to
Beaufortand
picking up
where I left
off. It will
mean some
different
strategies,
like packing
food and
more water
and being
even more
willing to
ask
strangers
for help in
finding a
safe place
to pitch my
tent. This
is an
adventure
after all,
and
strangers
are just
friends I
haven't met
yet.
Cutting
corners is
not an
option when
it comes to
this
journey. It's
all about
faith - my
faith in
knowing that
I will meet
the
challenge,
and your
faith in me
to do what I
said I would
do. Forgive
my moment of
weakness
yesterday. We're
back on
track and
it's all
good.
Thursday
June 7, 2007
- Day
13 -
Night The walk
into
Charleston
went
well. The
feet are
reasonably
content
after the
day of rest
in
Beaufort. Today
was the
hottest so
far (mid 90s
with a
triple-digit
heat index).
Just as I
did in
Savannah, I
plan to walk
on through
Charleston
tomorrow and
get back
into the
rural areas.
As funny as
it seems,
the large
urban areas
are the
least
enjoyable. I
prefer the
small towns
with the
local
hangouts and
slower
pace. I even
miss the
Patels! After
all, the
purpose of
this trip
was to
follow the
back roads.
Thanks to
John
Macdonell's
online
research, I
have
modified my
route. I'll
be going
northwest
inland and
then
doubling
back as I
head toward
Georgetown,
SC. The
extra
mileage
should
reward me
with more
interesting
sights and
people.
I have
had bad luck
with my
electronic
gear, with
the
exception of
my Alltel
Wireless
Blackberry,
which has
been dropped
and rained
on numerous
times yet
still keeps
me
connected. Alltel
rocks! The
GPS
application
is like
having a
personal
guide. Those
of you who
know how
directionally
challenged I
am can
appreciate
the fact
that I have
stayed on
course (and
am not in
New Orleans
instead).
Thanks
again to
everyone who
is
supporting
this
adventure --
it really
makes the
going
easier.
Peace out
...
Thursday
June 7, 2007
- Day 13
- Morning It's
10am and I'm
in Ravenel,
about 25
miles south
of
Charleston. In
the spirit
of full
disclosure I
must tell
you that I
rode the 40
miles from
Beaufort to
here (thanks
to the folks
at
Enterprise). You
can call me
a wimp, but
after
consulting
with folks
in Beaufort
about this
leg of the
trip and
discovering
that it was
65 miles of
open road
with only
two gas
stations and
nothing
else, I
opted for
riding to
the second
gas station
and resuming
my hike
there.
I
honestly
didn't think
three days
of walking
with no
where to eat
or rest was
the prudent
thing to do.
I still have
a long way
to go and
didn't want
to
jeopardize
my
health. So
I'm ready to
walk the 25
miles to
Charleston
and call it
a day. I
should make
it there
before
nightfall
with no
problem.
I'm
looking at
modifying my
route from
Charleston
to Myrtle
Beach in
order to
avoid a
similar
problem. Although
it will be
more miles
(I'll
probably get
back those
40 I skipped
today), I'm
looking at
taking Route
52 north out
of
Charleston
and later
connecting
with
Alternate 17
over to
Georgetown.
It is still
pretty
remote but
has a few
more stops
(unlike 17
which has
none for 90
miles!)
Time to
hit the
road. I'll
give you
another
update
tonight ...
Wednesday
June 6, 2007
- Day 12
- Morning Since I
didn't get
into
Beaufort
until after
dark in the
pouring rain
last night,
I am taking
a day of
rest to see
this great
historic
city. I will
be taking
the walking
tour (of
course).
The video
shoot with
SCETV went
well this
morning. I
didn't
realize that
a great deal
of Forrest
Gump was
actually
filmed
here. The
reporter who
interviewed
me had a
small part
in the
movie,
playing the
reporter who
asks Forrest
as he is
running
along if he
is running
for the
homeless or
world
peace. He
asked me the
same thing. I'm off to
take the
tour and
sample some
local
cuisine. Catch
up with you
later ...
Tuesday June
5, 2007 -
Day 11 -
Night The walk
along Route
170 this
afternoon
was really
scenic, with
a well
maintained
road,
several
bridges and
sweeping
vistas of
islands and
wide
expanses of
water. The
only
interruption
was two
different
thunderstorms,
one with
high winds
and even
hail. The
temperature
between
storms
reached the
low 90s, so
it was a day
of extremes.
Walking was
pretty easy,
so I was
able to make
it another
22 miles to
Beaufort.
Tomorrow
I meet up
with a video
crew from
South
Carolina ETV
for a
walking
interview
and later a
live radio
call-in on
ETV
Radio. Then
I head north
on Hwy 21
toward
Gardens
Corner. I'll
check in
again in the
morning ...
Tuesday June
5, 2007 -
Day 11 -
Noon Two
amazing
things:
There were
no places to
eat the
entire 33
mile trek
yesterday. I
actually
awoke
refreshed
and ready to
go this
morning
(although by
the time I
did my
laundry and
re-packed
everything
it was
11:00AM).
Anyway, I
am eating
everything
in sight
today. Right
now I am
pigging out
on homemade
meat loaf at
Dino's
Diner,
located on
Route 170
somewhere
between
middle and
nowhere. The
food is
great, as is
the ambience
which
includes
portraits of
the stars
adorning the
walls (I'm
in the James
Dean booth).
I am taking
it easier
today -- the
feet are
okay, but my
energy level
is below
euphoric --
I think I
used up my
endorphin
reserve
yesterday.
I would
like to get
to Burton
today. It's
just outside
of Beaufort.
Probably
another 17
miles. Right
now I'm just
going to sit
here a while
longer and
digest. It
is really
hot and
muggy, so I
anticipate a
much slower
pace. No
biggie --
I'm well
ahead of
schedule
anyway. Talk
to you again
tonight...
Monday June
4, 2007 -
Day 10 -
Late Posting It has
been an
interesting
day.
Everything
was going
fine this
morning as I
approached
the massive
suspension
bridge
leading from
Savannah
into South
Carolina. It
wasn't until
I approached
the on ramp
that I
realized the
bridge was
off limits
to
pedestrian
traffic.
Bummer!
Luckily I
was able to
call my
friend Frank
Baylor who
lives in the
city and he
rescued me
by giving me
a ride
across the
span. As he
dropped me
off on the
other side
on a rather
desolate
stretch of
17, he
commented
that he
wasn't sure
he was doing
me a favor.
I have to
admit that
the first
few miles
were a
little dicey
-- no
shoulder,
lots of
traffic, and
nothing but
strip clubs
along the
way. About 5
miles north
of Savannah,
I cut over
onto Route
170. I did
this for two
reasons:
After
consulting
my map, I
realized
that Hwy 17
morphs into
I-95 twice
in SC, which
would leave
me as a
stranded
pedestrian
in the
middle of
nowhere. And
after I
realized the
condition of
17, this
alternate
route looked
more
interesting.
While still
not the
greatest for
walking (a
bit narrow
and very
busy), it
was a very
scenic route
and the
walking went
easy.
I walked
the whole
day, only
stopping to
grab a
Gatorade at
the only two
gas stations
I
encountered.
After a
series of
twists and
turns, I
finished the
day in
Bluffton at
a beautiful
Hampton Inn.
Lou Ann
Takach, the
General
Manager,
gave me a
room for the
night in
support of
my cause.
Hampton Inn
and Suites
rocks! The
accommodations
were better
than first
rate, and
did I ever
appreciate
it.
Especially
since I had
been walking
for more
than 10
hours and
covered 33
miles!
After a
good night's
sleep, I
head for
Beaufort in
the
morning...
Sunday June
3, 2007 -
Day Nine -
Night The
weather
improved
dramatically
as I walked
today. I
have made a
slight
change in
plans. Since
I know
Savannah's
history and
hot spots
pretty well
and my feet
are
reasonably
happy, I'm
not going to
spend much
time here. I
pretty much
walked
straight
through the
city and
have stopped
for the
night on the
north side,
very close
to the South
Carolina
line. I'm
going to
cross over
(the state
line, that
is) tomorrow
morning. Check
another
state off
the
list. The
people and
places of
Georgia have
been
wonderful
and I look
forward to
staying in
touch with
my new
friends. In
a fitting
finale to my
stay in
bulldog
country, a
stray but
gentle mutt
led me to my
motel
tonight. As
I was
pondering
which of the
palaces of
Patel I
would visit
tonight,
this little
guy came out
of the woods
and showed
me to the
check-in
area of the
Thunderbird
Inn.
I am
going to
catch up
with an old
high school
buddy
tonight who
recently
retired here
in Savannah,
and then
first thing
in the
morning it's
SC. Okay,
now let's
focus on
purpose.
There is a
great line
in Jack
Kerouac's
"On the
Road" where
a carnival
huckster
stops him on
the road and
asks "Are
you goin'
somewhere,
or just goin'?"
A good
question,
and one that
I've been
getting
frequently
in one form
or
another. A
somewhat
timid
gentleman
approached
me at one of
my rest
stops,
motioned to
my pack, and
asked me if
I had a
purpose. "To
walk," I
replied and
then paused
before
evangelizing
the virtues
of public
radio. People
seem
relieved
when they
find out
that I do
indeed have
a purpose,
as if not
having one
would cast a
shadow of
suspicion
over my
motives.
Of course
a few folks
think I'm
crazy, but
the truth is
that if more
people did
things like
this there
would be
less
craziness in
the
world. Just
getting up
and starting
my walk with
no
preconceived
idea of how
far I'm
going or
where I'll
end up each
night is so
exhilarating,
as is
getting
totally
drenched in
the rain and
splattered
from head to
toe with
road
dirt. Walking
into a local
hangout
looking like
I've been
rode hard
and put away
wet and
being
generously
welcomed by
gracious
people is so
American
South. I'm
loving every
minute of
it!
Sunday
June 3, 2007 -
Day Nine -
Morning The rain
is still
coming down
and the wind
has picked
up a bit
since
yesterday,
but I'm all
dried out
and ready to
do it all
over
again. I'm
looking
forward to
getting into
Savannah
today. Before
I hit the
road, I want
to recognize
some more
folks who
are
supporting
the cause
behind this
adventure. I
am a day
late, but I
want to wish
all the best
to the newly
wed Ben and
Christine
Lyman, Jr.,
married
yesterday at
the Church
of the
Incarnation
on the
campus of
the
University
of
Dallas. May
your journey
together be
one of
endless
possibilities
and shared
dreams.
I want to
thank my
buddy Dick
Rogers -
have a dry
Merlot for
me - a dry
anything
would be
nice at this
point. Also
my
colleagues
and friends
Rick and
Diane Scott,
Faye (Pooh)
Bowers,
Everett
(Mini Me)
Bradshaw,
Lynne
Marshall,
Trish
Allison, and
John and
Chris
Cavanaugh.
Without
the support
of these and
many others
(who I will
acknowledge
later), this
journey
would be
nothing more
than a
personal
quest. Supporting
public radio
gives it a
higher
purpose. Hold
that
thought. More
on purpose
later today,
but right
now I have
to get
wet. Later...
Saturday
June 2, 2007 -
Day Eight -
Night After a
week of
beautiful
blue skies
and bright
sunshine,
today I was
accompanied
by the outer
bands of
Tropical
Storm Barry.
It rained
hard the
entire 4
hour trek
from Midway
to Richmond
Hill, GA. I
am now about
a half day's
walk from
Savannah. I
actually
enjoyed the
steady
downpour -
it was cool
and
refreshing
and had a
settling
effect until
about an
hour outside
of Richmond
Hill, when
the wind
picked up
considerably,
as did the
number of
southbound
18 wheelers.
Slogging
through
ankle-deep
water as the
rain seeped
into every
article of
clothing,
the rain
stinging my
face, I felt
strangely
invigorated.
It
reminded me
of the time
I rode my
10-speed,
130 miles
across Afton
Mountain in
Virginia in
a downpour,
in the
pre-dawn
dark, with
no brakes or
lights, on a
two-lane
highway with
no shoulder.
That was 30
years ago. I
thought
wisdom comes
with
maturity --
guess not.
Anyway,
today as I
kept meeting
those
oncoming
trucks I
couldn't
help
thinking
about people
who spend
thousands of
dollars on
huge
European
showers with
multiple
heads that
hit you with
water from
multiple
sources
simultaneously.
I was
experiencing
the same
thing for
free. Don't
waste your
money.
Since
arriving
here this
afternoon, I
have been
doing my
laundry,
drying out
my pack, and
getting
ready for
what looks
like several
more days of
rain. I'm
not
complaining
-- we need
it. I'll
close
tonight with
an
observation
about feet.
I've come to
realize that
they are a
lot like
children.
You do
exactly the
same things
for both of
your feet
and yet they
behave
completely
differently.
Take mine
(feet, that
is) for
example. On
this hike I
have taken
the same
measures to
keep them
happy. My
right foot (
the stoic
one) is
great-- it's
like it's on
vacation. My
left foot
has been a
whiner since
day one. I
have had to
change the
type of
socks, the
manner of
lacing that
shoe, and
even the way
I control
the way it
strikes the
ground. And
still it
complains.
But just
like kids, I
love both my
feet. They
each
contribute
to the
success of
this
journey, and
I could
never do it
without them
both. Oh
well, enough
about feet.
I've got
more drying
out to do by
morning.
More
tomorrow...
Friday
June 1, 2007 -
Day Seven -
Night I knew
when I
looked at
the map and
consulted
with the
locals last
night that
today would
be a long
haul. It was
- 24 miles
in all - but
it was by
far the best
day so
far. The
walking was
easy and the
discoveries
many. I
already told
you about
the smallest
church. That
was just the
beginning. I
passed
through
several
small towns
that until
today were
just names
on a map or
an I-95 exit
hurriedly
passed en
route to the
next urban
sprawl.
The
highlight of
my day has
to be
Midway, GA,
the place
where I am
staying
tonight. The
Midway
Motel,
another
member of
the Patel
franchise,
is pure
retro 50's,
right down
to the funky
coastal
decor in the
rooms - I
love it!
After
checking in
and
showering
off the
day's
accumulation
of road
dirt, I
headed in to
The Cedar
Tree, a
family
restaurant
right on Hwy
17. After
ordering the
steak
special, I
paused to
soak up the
atmosphere
of the
place. They
had a stereo
system set
up in one
corner
playing
mellow hits
of the 50's
and 60's -
the kind of
tunes my
parents
grooved
on. And
carefully
positioned
on top of
the stereo
was a Dean
Martin doll
- how
perfect -
Mr. Rat Pack
himself
keeping an
eye on
things. It
was like I
was 12
again,
making the
family
pilgrimage
to Florida
in the back
seat of my
dad's Olds
Dynamic 88 -
only now it
was a fond
memory,
nothing like
the real
experience.
But that's
okay, I'll
take the
fondness.
As I
finished my
delicious
dinner, I
was invited
by the
couple
sitting in
the adjacent
booth to
join them
and share my
story. I
want to go
on record as
telling you
that Ennis
and Deborah
Hager are
two of the
most
gracious
people I
have ever
met. Their
pride of
Midway's
rich history
was evident
as they
offered to
take me on a
tour of this
part of
Liberty
County. I
followed
them to the
register,
pausing
briefly to
snap a
picture of
the Dino
doll for the
gallery. They
insisted on
paying for
my dinner
(too
nice). We
climbed into
their truck
and headed
out for a
tour of this
beautiful
area and its
great
historical
significance.
I have
pictures of
things you
would never
know about
without the
help of
resident
insiders. I
can't begin
to share it
all
now. Returning
me to the
hotel just
before dark,
I hated to
part company
with Ennis
and
Deborah. They
were the
over-the-top
ending to a
perfect
day. I feel
like old
friends and
know that
our paths
will cross
again. It
also makes
me realize
that
opportunities
for
interactions
like this
are all
around
us. If we
just stay
open to
them, our
lives are
all the
better for
it. Peace be
with you...
Friday
June 1, 2007 -
Day Seven -
Noon Lunch at
the Golden
Arches --
first one
I've seen on
the
road. Well,
here it is -
the first
day of
that of
which we do
not speak
and my
seventh day
on the road.
I visited
the
"Smallest
Church in
America"
this
morning. Christ's
Chapel in
South
Newport was
built in
1949 by
Agnes
Harper. It
measures 10'
x 20' and
has seating
for 12. It
is a popular
spot for
weddings and
is always
open for
wayfarers
like me. I
met a youth
group from
Tupelo on a
pilgrimage
to put a
fresh coat
of paint on
the
place. One
of the
parents had
read "A Walk
Across
America," so
she
understood
my mission
and assured
me that
people are
good (not
that I have
any doubts).
Yesterday
I talked
about my MP3
fiasco. I
am
definitely
missing my
"Lark," but
now I begin
each day
with Alison
Krauss' "Living
Prayer"
(.mp3
-
56k) a
nice
uplifting
gospel
tune. I
usually
follow that
up with
"Wasted on
the Way"
(.mp3
-
56k) by
Crosby,
Stills and
Nash. To
make it on
the road, a
tune has to
have a
strong
melody --
it's all
about
maintaining
that rhythm,
you know.
Time to head
north!
Thursday May
31, 2007 -
Day Six -
Night I'm in
for the
night at
Eulonia,
GA. Made
about 14
miles today
and the
blisters
hurt less
than at the
end of
yesterday. This
is really
encouraging. Once
they harden
into
calluses, I
won't have
to dwell on
them and can
walk until I
get tired --
which is
never. This
journey is
so
invigorating
and my
energy seems
boundless. I'll
probably
have to
check myself
into an
endorphin
rehab
program when
I get
home. Can't
beat that
natural
high!
I
realized
today that I
haven't been
sharing my
music with
you like I
promised.
My MP3
player is a
great
companion on
those long
stretches of
open
highway.
Unfortunately
The Lark
Ascending,
my
"centering"
piece that
was to begin
each day,
has
mysteriously
disappeared
from the
player (I
guess it
ascended). I
also lost
the Dixie
Chicks when
I was in
Brunswick on
the same day
that Dubya
was
there. Okay,
I'm not
saying it's
anything
more than a
coincidence,
but maybe
they're
spending
that
homeland
security
budget on
file zapping
technology
instead of
keeping our
borders safe
from TB
carrying
bridegrooms.
Whoa,
where is all
this coming
from? Must
be the
strawberry
shortcake I
just ate at
Huddle House
-- I better
go for a
run. Better
yet, I'm
going to
listen to
the audio
book of Jack
Kerouac's ON
THE ROAD
that I
loaded on
the old MP3,
and since I
have rambled
on far too
long, I'll
continue the
music
discussion
tomorrow. Over
and out!
Thursday May
31, 2007 -
Day Six -
Morning
Breakfast at
Granny Lee's
north of
Darien --
pancakes and
a slab of
country ham
that would
stop my
heart in a
second if I
wasn't
getting such
great
exercise.
I'm heading
for Eulonia,
but plan to
make many
stops along
the way to
check out
the rich
history in
McIntosh
County.
I'm taking
more
pictures and
hope when I
get to
Savannah in
a few days
I'll be able
to
upload them
to the
gallery.
Skies are
still fair,
but it looks
like rain on
the
horizon. I
am still
having a
great
time. Blisters
are pretty
painful in
the
mornings,
but after a
while I
think the
nerve
endings give
up and leave
me alone
till the end
of the
day. It's
not a big
deal and
does not
dampen my
enthusiasm
in the
least.
I wish
everyone
could have
an
opportunity
to do this
-- slower
rhythm,
lower BP,
and taking
the time to
really
notice
what's going
on around
you and the
innate
kindness of
the American
people. Oh
well, gotta
walk off
these
pancakes...
Wednesday May
30, 2007 -
Day Five Another
great day on
the
road. The 16
miles
between
Brunswick
and Darien
seemed to
pass
quickly. Midway
on my route
today I met
a man who
walked the
entire
Appalachian
Trail last
year to
raise money
for
Florida's
Abused and
Neglected
Children. His
story was
featured on
NPR's All
Things
Considered. A
very nice
guy -- he
goes by the
nickname
"Spanky".
We discussed
the concept
of divine
intervention
in scary
situations. His
involved a
Bull Moose
on the AT in
Maine. Footnote:
I will
henceforth
refer to the
Appalachian
Trail as the
"AT". It is
a part of
the language
of the
veteran
hikers.
Good
conservation
of words and
not
surprising
from folks
who are
masters of
doing more
by carrying
less. Also,
if you are
part of the
hiking
brother
-sisterhood,
you have a
nickname
(Spanky, for
instance)
which you
can give
yourself or
your
companions
will do it
for you. I
learned all
this from my
hiking
mentor Gary
(aka Bear
Bag), to
whom I am
grateful for
the crash
course in
packing, the
continuing
counsel, and
the long
distance
medical
advice. You
are the man!
Darien is
a great
little
historical
town right
on the
Darien River
in McIntosh
County,
GA. Two kind
ladies
steered me
to the
Sailfish Bed
and
Breakfast, a
great find
in the
historic
district --
unpretentious
and as
comfortable
as your
favorite
pair of
shoes.
And
speaking of
shoes, my
Saucony
Hurricane 7
running
shoes are
meeting the
challenge of
the long and
hot blue
highway. If
you know
anybody at
Saucony,
tell them
this would
be a great
endorsement
opportunity
in exchange
for a little
support for
public
radio.
Thanks to
Adventures
Unlimited in
Milton, FL,
for their
support of
my big
adventure. And
Alltel
Wireless
makes it
possible for
me to ramble
on endlessly
through the
blogosphere
and keep
track of
where I am.
Time to
explore
Darien -- I
have the
feeling I
could stay
here for a
week, but I
must move on
in the
morning. I'm
taking a
more scenic
route (99)
for most of
the next leg
of the
journey. It's
more
mileage, but
I'm told the
coastal view
is worth
it. Can't
wait! Peace
out...
Tuesday May
29, 2007 -
Day Four A short
day -- just
10 miles --
from just
southwest of
Brunswick to
slightly
north of the
city. When I
discovered
that the
next
civilized
place
(Darien) was
another 16
miles, I
decided not
to try it,
but rather
soak up some
more of the
local
flavor. That
flavor
includes
Mack's
Bar-Be-Que
-- great
food and
friendly
people.
One of the
highlights
of today's
walk was
crossing the
3-mile
suspension
bridge
between the
entrance to
Jekyl Island
and
Brunswick.
It was
really
beautiful.
Route 17
really is
perfect for
walking.
Traffic is
minimal, the
shoulders
are well
maintained,
and cars are
respectful.
I've seen
more
motorcycles
than cars.
Everything
on the back
roads is a
few beats
behind the
interstate
world, but
the rhythm
is right.
I want to
thank my
corporate
sponsors:
Harbor
Docks, The
Kayak
Experience,
Kerrigan,
Estess,
Rankin,
McLeod and
Thompson,
and the
Univision
Group. If
you get the
chance, tell
them how
much you
appreciate
their
support of
WUWF.
I also want
to thank the
individuals
who are
sponsoring
every mile
of the hike:
Jacqui
Berger, KC
and Lori
Clark, Tom
and Lynn
Hayes, and
Buz and
Susan
Livingston.
I will be
thanking
many others
as the walk
goes on.
More are
pledging
everyday --
thank you!
Oh well,
time for me
to check out
the local
nightlife.
Monday May
28, 2007 -
Day Three Another
20 miles
today and I
am in
Brunswick,
GA. Actually,
it feels
like a
hiker's
paradise --
a great
hotel run by
folks who
like NPR,
located
between a
Country
Buffet and a
Family
Dollar. Life
does not get
any better
than this!
Places to
eat have
been few and
far between
since
Saturday, so
I made up
for it with
"meat and
three" times
three. And
tomorrow
I'll be
restocking
my pack at
the Family
Dollar.
I continue
to meet such
nice
people. This
morning I
couldn't
find food
anywhere, so
I walked 10
miles until
I found a
gas station
in
Waverly. As
I enjoyed
some fried
chicken, I
was
entertained
by a fine
Christian
gentleman
who had made
a few
pilgrimages
in his
time. As we
parted ways,
he advised
me to greet
everyone I
met with a
hearty
handshake
and a
"Praise the
Lord!" --
pretty good
advice,
actually,
although
"Peace be
with you" is
more in line
with my
Anglican
sensibilities.
Every day of
my journey
is better
than the
last. I am
beginning to
understand
the rhythm
of the road.
I'm also
getting the
rhythm of my
hiking poles
-- the first
day was
awkward, but
now I can't
imagine
walking
without
them.
I had a bit
of
excitement
today as
well. As I
passed a
farm house
north of
Waverly,
seven pit
bulls came
charging off
the front
porch. I was
on the
opposite
side of the
road and
hoped they
wouldn't
cross -- no
such luck.
By this time
I had turned
my back to
the oncoming
traffic and
was standing
my ground
(like I had
a
choice). Just
as 3 of them
had crossed
over to
where I was
standing, a
pickup truck
came up from
behind me,
stopped
between me
and the
other 4 dogs
and laid on
his
horn. This
spooked them
and by using
the most
fearless
voice I
could muster
I told the
other 3 to
beat it.
They did --
the truck
sped on --
and I picked
up my
pace. Just
another one
of life's
little
adventures.
I gazed up
at the
beautiful
blue sky
above,
shared a few
words of
thanks, and
thought
about the
gentleman I
had shared
lunch with.
Peace be
with you...
Sunday May
27, 2007 -
Day Two Day
two. 20
miles. Tonight
I'm staying
at the
Stardust
Lodge in
Woodbine,
GA. Gotta
love the
name. It's
right out of
Route 66 --
a true
treasure
from the
50's -- not
restored,
but rather
maintained
in its
original
glory (maybe
with a new
paint
job). Still
no mom and
pop, but a
very nice
couple
(although I
keep wanting
to ask them
why my Dell
keeps giving
me error
messages).
When I
told them
about my
quest, they
gave me a
big discount
and are even
going to do
my laundry
in the
morning. How great is
that? It's
the perfect
ending to a
great day. I
stopped for
breakfast at
Steffen's, a
local
favorite in
Kingsland,
GA. They
bill
themselves
as the "City
of Royal
Treatment",
and it is
indeed!
People in
South
Georgia are
so nice. One
couple I met
today is
even going
to go online
and pledge.
So far I
have
encountered
only
friendly
people --
they wave
and smile
when they
pass me on
the road.
Even the
Georgia bull
dogs are
well behaved
(have faith,
Lynne). I'm
feeling
pretty good
about the
American
people.
Oh well,
it's bedtime
for me.
Catch you
later...
Saturday May
26, 2007 -
Night One Day one
comes to a
close with
24 miles
under my
belt. I
intended to
do only 14,
but at that
point I felt
like going
for 5 more.
Little did I
know that
the next 10
miles were
totally
uninhabited
-- ouch!
I'll be
paying for
that
tomorrow.
Anyway,
about the
time I was
ready to
pitch my
tent, a Days
Inn appeared
on the
horizon. So
here I am,
only 2.5
miles from
the Georgia
border,
holed up in
the Days Inn
from hell,
stuck in the
middle of
nowhere.
I'm not
trying to be
mean, but I
feel like I
must warn
others. I
spend the
whole day on
the highway
cataloging
the road
kill, only
to find a
huge (12")
recently
deceased
lizard
reclining on
the floor at
the foot of
my bed. I
scooped it
up into a
plastic bag
and
deposited it
on the
registration
desk,
inquiring if
I would be
charged for
the extra
guest. They
were not
amused.
I realize
that I have
only spent 2
nights in
"second
tier"
hotels, but
I am losing
hope that I
will find
the "mom and
pop"
establishment
reminiscent
of my
childhood
travels to
the Sunshine
State.
What has
become of
mom and pop?
Your mom
isn't
running the
front desk
anymore,
unless
you're from
Bangalore. Oh
well,
tomorrow is
indeed
another day.
God bless
America!
Saturday May
26, 2007 -
Day One I might
as well blog
while I wait
endlessly
for service
at Denny's.
Don't these
people know
I have
places to
go?
Dinner last
night with
Lee Hunter
and Arvid
Smith was
wonderful. We
sat outside,
enjoying a
cool breeze
amidst
legions of
folks
kicking off
their
Memorial Day
weekend. I
doubt if any
of them will
be spending
it the way I
will. Route
17 is right
outside my
window.
I'm tempted
to skip
breakfast,
but since I
have no idea
how far I'll
have to go
to encounter
more food,
I'll be
patient. It's
not like I
have to be
anywhere at
a certain
time. Cool,
but this
freedom is
going to
take some
getting used
to. Okay,
pancakes
have arrived
-- catch you
later.
Friday
May 25, 2007
The
drive to
Jacksonville
today was
uneventful,
except for
the smoke
which
blanketed
everything
west of Lake
City. Lots
of blue sky
here in JAX,
but also
some
showers. It
is cooler
and could be
really
pleasant in
the morning.
I'll be up
at 5am and
ready to
finally head
north --
yea! Time
now for
sleep --
blog you
tomorrow...
Wednesday
May 23, 2007 The time
is really
drawing
near. Today
was a great
day at UWF.
All of my
friends and
colleagues
are so
encouraging. Maybe
they’re just
being nice
because they
think I’ll
never make
it back…
nah!
Contributions
are still
coming in at
a good
pace. The
total is now
approaching
$14,000! Thank
you for your
support.
The
soundtrack
of my
journey is
nearly
complete. I
will be
adding
tracks to my
MP3 player
right up to
my departure
date. The
mix is very
eclectic. I’ll
share it
with you as
we go
along. My
love of all
music is the
reason I got
into this
business in
the first
place. Nothing
to me is
more
effective at
triggering
memories
than music
and believe
me, the mix
I’ve put
together
will be
triggering
many.
My first
choice and
the piece I
will begin
each day
with is the
beautiful
romance for
violin and
orchestra,
The Lark
Ascending,
composed by
Ralph
Vaughan
Williams. This
is my
favorite
piece of
classical
music. I
first heard
it when I
was
recording a
concert by
the Piedmont
Chamber
Orchestra in
Winston-Salem,
NC. My
friend Steve
Tortorici
plays it
often on
Morning
Classics, so
you may be
familiar
with it. At
any rate,
you can
listen to it
here
.mp3
.wma. I
can’t
imagine a
more perfect
way to begin
my walk each
morning,
heading up
the coast
just after
sunrise, ear
buds in
place,
filling my
head with
this
gorgeous
pastoral
masterpiece. It
will be hard
to stay
focused on
the road and
not let
myself get
lost in the
moment.
Tomorrow is
my daughter
Megan’s
graduation
from West
Florida High
School. I am
so proud and
excited for
her as she
begins her
new journey,
moving out
on her own
and
preparing
for life as
a UWF
freshman (go
Argos!).
Life is
good…
Tuesday May
22, 2007 Sorry I
missed a
couple of
days – I had
a busy
weekend. I
spent an
enlightening
Sunday
afternoon
with Dr.
Gary
Buffington,
his lovely
wife Millie
and their
friend
Cimarron –
all avid
hikers. Gary
is like the
Yoda of
walkers. He
read the PNJ
article and
knew by the
weight of my
pack that I
needed help
to pull this
adventure
off. And
help I got!
He put the
art of
packing into
perspective
for me with
his Zen-like
observations.
“There is a
direct
correlation
between the
weight of
your pack
and your
level of
fear,” he
advised. In
other words,
the more you
fear, the
more you
pack.
Worried
about
starving? You
pack too
much
food. Animal
attacks? Too
many weapons. In
my case it
was
hygiene. Way
too much
toothpaste
and
mouthwash!
After a
thorough
review of
the contents
of my pack
and the
counsel of
my new
friends, I
was able to
drop the
total weight
of my
worldly
possessions
from 38 to
20 pounds! I
guess that
equates to
about a 50%
reduction in
my anxiety.
Since I will
be one with
my pack for
the next two
months, I’m
feeling
pretty good
about
this. I
soaked up
the advice
of these
seasoned
hikers on
other
aspects of
the trip as
well. What a
wonderful
afternoon!
Connecting
with people
is one of
the reasons
I decided to
make this
journey. If
the bonds I
already feel
with Gary,
Millie &
Cimarron are
any
indication,
this will
indeed be a
life-changing
experience. How
refreshing
to step
(walk?) away
from the
ordinary
routine of
life (for
awhile,
anyway). Three
days to go –
the highway
is
calling. Catch
you
tomorrow…
Saturday May
19, 2007 I’m
checking all
of my
camping gear
to make sure
I’ve packed
everything. You
can see that
my tent is
pretty cozy
(tent
pictures are
coming,
honest). I’ve
been
contacted by
a retired
doctor here
in Pensacola
who has
hiked more
than 40,000
miles –
yikes!
I’m going
to catch up
with him
tomorrow and
get some
great advice
on what to
keep and
what to
chuck to
minimize
weight. I am
a total
amateur and
really look
forward to
learning as
much as I
can by the
end of the
week. One
thing I’m
not doing is
walking –
I’m letting
everything
rest for
next five
days. I
figured I’d
better lay
low after
the PNJ
article (not
that I’m
paranoid or
anything).
I’m
loading my
MP3 player
with what
will become
the
soundtrack
of the
hike. I’ll
share some
of the play
list with
you
tomorrow.
Thursday May
17, 2007 The
Pensacola
News Journal
has an
excellent
article
today about
the hike.
Thank you,
Rebecca
Ross!
Check it out
here.
The comments
from readers
and calls
and pledges
from
supporters
are
amazing. I
will
certainly
never feel
alone on
this journey
and look
forward to
maintaining
an online
journal as I
go. Next
Friday can’t
get here
soon
enough.
After
driving to
Jacksonville
and dropping
off the
rental car,
my friends
Lee Hunter
and Arvid
Smith
(better
known as the
musical duo
Tammerlin)
will be
dropping me
off on
Highway 17
just north
of the city
on Saturday
morning.
That will be
the last
RIDING I do
for quite
some
time. Blog
you tomorrow
...
Wednesday
May 16, 2007
I have spent
the past six
months
training for
this
adventure
and I am as
ready as
I’ll ever
be. The
support and
enthusiasm
of those of
you who have
pledged your
support is
truly
heartwarming…
thank you.
And
thanks to
the help of
Alltel
Wireless, I
will be able
to stay in
touch
throughout
the trip,
calling in
during
Morning
Edition and
All Things
Considered
as well as
making daily
entries to
this blog.
I want this
to be a
shared
experience,
a chance for
us to take
the pulse of
the real
America and
remind
ourselves of
what makes
our country
great.
I’m
watching
those wild
fires and
hoping for
the best.
My feet are
happily in a
good place
right now
and ready to
hit the
road. I’m
off to the
Village of
Baytowne
Wharf for
tonight’s
RadioLive …
my last for
a while.
Catch you
later…
